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021 From Painting to Colored Pencil

021 From Paint to Colored Pencil.jpg

Topic:  Transitioning From Painting to Colored Pencil

This week Lisa and I talked about the differences in Painting and colored pencil.  If you come from a background of painting and want to transition into colored pencil how do you start?

There is less clean up and mess and preparation when you use colored pencils as opposed to getting out the oil paints or acrylics and commit several hours of work.  In colored pencil you can draw for 10 or 15 minutes or 8 hours straight if you want, and the clean up is always going to be minimal.  

Lisa suggests starting with just three pencils and try and make the medium do what you want just until you get comfortable with blending and laying down pigment in this new way.

Colored pencil is much slower but it's also much more precise and you can get more details.   

In colored pencil your mixing is done right there on the paper through the layers that you put down.  

Links:

Lisa's art box review of Intense by Derwent

020 Drawing Small vs Large

Topic: Working on small vs large works

Some of the difficulties to working small would be if you're trying to draw a portrait then your proportions might be off and it is more noticeable smaller and could be hard to correct.  When you draw larger you have more room margin for error in the proportions.

Lisa points out that some newer artists would have a greater degree of success going small because they can get more work done quicker.   Instead of trying to draw an entire bowl of fruit why not just start with an apple instead.

There is really no right or wrong answer.  Always think about what the viewer is able to see and if there's too much information in the drawing it may be unnecessary.

Some of the old masters painted very very small at times.  

If you draw or paint about the same size all the time you may want to change it up and try going larger or smaller.

Also, later in the show, Lisa tries out a pencil line she’s never tried before from Derwent.


 

019 Interview with Jesse Lane

Today we are interviewing a very successful and young artist, Jesse Lane.  He has been involved in so many different shows and has won awards in such a short time.  You have got to check out Jesse’s resume of activity at http://www.jesselaneart.com/#!exhibitions/c1ufm

 

Most recently Jesse won Best of Show at the Conroe Art League.

 

He has two of his pieces accepted into the Richeson75 Figure/Portrait exhibition in Kimberly, Wisconsin later this year (2015).  His piece, Reveal, has been juried into the ArtHop exhibition at the Georgetown Art Center in Austin October.

He offers some excellent advice to any young artists starting out or for anyone new to the art of colored pencil!  

 

Links:

http://www.jesselaneart.com/

 

https://www.facebook.com/Jesse-Lane-Art-198164760239922/timeline/


 

Get the latest issue of the COLORED PENCIL Magazine by visiting their site:

http://coloredpencilmag.com/subscribe/


 

To join the discussion join the FB podcast group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/coloredpencilpodcast/

018 Considerations For Pricing Your Artwork

Are you at least on the right track?

It's the BIG question that we all ask. How much should I charge for my art?

Like everything else, art is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. It doesn't matter if you think your work is worth $4000. If no one will pay that then the fact is it's not. So how much should you charge?  Here are some tips to help you determine the right number for you.

Do not start high and lower prices when things don't sell.

The first thing to understand when deciding on prices for your work is that it will always be better to start low and raise your prices as sales increase. Don't start off unreasonably high and lower the price because they aren't selling. This will REALLY irritate your collectors who paid on the high end of the scale. You don't want that reputation. Start lower. As you continue to get sales, increase your prices. You can even increase your prices on your very next painting.

There are two extremes I see when artists price their work.

Either the artist is grossly overcharging or they are seriously undercharging for their work. The first tends to come from newer artists who are too emotionally attached to their work so they price their work, according to that attachment.  The other common reason for this is that they haven't yet produced many pieces, so that makes each one more valuable to them. If you are too attached to your work, then I think it's better just to keep the piece and not list it for sale yet. In a year or two, you will have created enough work that your skill level will have increased and you won't feel so attached to those older ones. Then won't feel so harsh to sell those first paintings for $75 each instead of the initial $4000 you thought they were worth at the time.

The artist who doesn't charge nearly enough is probably the more common of the two. You need to value your time. If you spent 40 hours on a painting or drawing, it just doesn't make sense to charge $40 for it.  That may not even cover the cost of supplies!

 

Well, how do I really know how much to sell my work for then?!

Unfortunately, there is no one straight answer for this. There are many factors that come into play when deciding how much to charge. So let's take a look at some of these things and hopefully it will give you a better starting point on how to price your own work.

 

How long have you been creating art?

If you are a new artist then you probably need time to develop both skill and a following. When we're first learning, realistically our work is not likely to be that great. That doesn't mean someone won't enjoy it, so don't get frustrated that you're not yet Michelangelo and give up or throw your work away. An easy way to get started in selling is to list your smaller pieces (smaller because they're easier to ship) on ebay. Let your friends and family know that you have a new listing by linking it to your social media accounts. See what sells, and how much it goes for. At least charge enough to cover the cost of your supplies. As you complete more work and get more constant sales, you can start to raise your prices. But don't assume that because you saw a blue dot sell for millions in a big art gallery that your landscape that obviously took way more time is worth more.

How much are other artists at your skill level/area/subject matter selling for?

Go to local galleries, check the prices on artist's websites who are similar in your subject matter and skill level. How much are they selling their work for? This is one of the easiest ways to determine where you should start. The catch here is that if you're not well known yet in your community, or online, you need to find other artists who are similar in those aspects as well. It doesn't matter if you paint as well as Thomas Kincaid, you don't have the name he built to back you, so your work isn't going to sell for as much. People buy for the artist as much as for the art itself so, in this case, popularity does matter.

Keep in mind that undercutting those in your range is not necessarily going to get you more sales. Most art buyers don't know much about art, they just know what they like. Sometimes all you're telling buyers is that your work is not as valuable as another artist by placing your prices just below that other artist. When I was focused on pet portraits, I got more commissions when I raised my prices above my competition than when I was lower. It was sort of like telling people "I'm worth the extra money", without having to say it. I'm not saying you need to to put your stuff hundreds or thousands above, but don't sell yourself short either.

 

Pricing based on size.

I won't lie. I fought this one for years. I don't feel that size indicates the value of a painting. I may spend 2 hours on a 2'x4' painting, and 2 weeks on one a quarter of the size. Why then would I sell the one I spent so long on for less than the larger one?! Well, frankly, because that is what buyers understand. They relate size toprice. There are two common ways to do this

  • Price by square inch: This is where you figure out the area by multiplying the length x width. UGG MATH!! I know I know, but it's important! So an 8x10 painting would be 80 square inches, and a 24"x36" would be 864 square inches.  Let's say you wanted to charge $1.40 per square inch, then your priceswould look something like this (my numbers are rounded):                                      

  • Price by linear inch: This is what I went with myself. To figure out your linear inch, you will add the length + width. So an 8x10" painting would be  18 linear inches and a 24x36" painting would be 60 linear inches. If you wanted to charge $20 per linear inch, that would make your prices look something like this:

Why did I choose linear inch pricing over square inch? As you can see by the numbers above, pricing by square inch leaves your numbers skewed a bit weird so that your smaller pieces are really cheap for the size compared to larger. Linear inch keeps the paintings more evenly spaced. I don't think this is a one size fits all thing though. Some artists like having their smaller paintings available for very low prices so it really comes down to what appeals more to you.

 

Pricing based on time.

While some artists like to be paid a specific amount based on the amount of time spent on a piece, I personally don't. First, as I stated above, it's not something most customers really understand. Second, when you're a newer artist, much of the time you spend is in trial and error and in fixing things that don't look right. Top that off with the fact that when you're newer you won't really know for sure how many hours a piece will take, that makes it nearly impossible to give a clear price quote to a client who is interested in hiring you for a commission.

Many years ago I used to do a bit of web design for other people. I was not an expert. I could do it, but I did so VERY slowly. Should my clients have to pay extra for my lack of experience while I was learning? I don't think so (and neither did they).  Art is the same. The longer you paint, the faster you will get. In part because you will make less mistakes that you need to troubleshoot.

That said, you may want to incorporate how long you think it will take you to complete a painting into your price per square or linear inch.   What do I mean by that? Well if you want to be paid $10 per hour (if you're more experienced that number should be much higher), and it's going to take you 10 hours to paint an 8x10"  piece, that means that you want to make around $100 for that painting. That puts your price at around $5.55 per linear inch.

Your cost of supplies.

You need to consider the cost of your supplies. If I paint something on linen, I'm going to charge more to make up the difference in materials (linen cost's quite a bit more than cotton canvas). Are you using Luminance colored pencils instead of cheaper prismacolors? You can, and should, be charging accordingly. In that case, the work created by Luminance is going to be far more archival that work created with prismacolor. This sort of thing matters. Make sure that you're factoring in the cost of your supplies when you figure out your pricing structure.

 

You need to be comfortable with your prices, but for those of us who tend to undercharge given our experience/following/previous sales and such, artist Melissa Dinwiddie said something that was genius:  " if my prices don’t make me feel at least a little uncomfortable that I’m charging too much, I’m probably undercharging!"

That is SO true. Sometimes we need to remind ourselves that art is a luxury item. Don't feel guilty charging what you're worth!

 

Links:

http://theabundantartist.com/5-art-pricing-lessons/

Click here to enroll in the abundant artist course.

(The above link to the Abundant Artist course offerings is an affiliate link, so I do get a small commission if you purchase a product.)

http://melissadinwiddie.com/


017 Prismas vs Luminance

Podcast 17 - Prismacolor Premier vs Caran D’Ache Luminance

Prismacolor Premier Pencil

pros -

  1. Very inexpensive (run around 1.50 to 2.00) they are accessible in individual colors and open stock at most art stores.  

  2. They have the most colors available out of any colored pencils set on the market.

  3. They blend well with other color pencils both oil and wax-based pencils

  4. They are labeled very well and the outside coloring tends to match the pigment color of the lead

cons -

  1. Overall poor quality in quality control - they’re prone to breakage (sharpening)

  2. The leads can break loose from the casing.

  3. There is inconsistencies in the color of one production line to the next.  For example one cream color might be darker than the other one.

  4. There are so many of their colors that are not lightfast.

Caran D’Ache Luminance Pencil

pros -

1.  They are of the highest standard in both craftsmanship and pigmentation.

2.  They hold their point very well and can last a long time.

3.  Their lightfast ratings are higher than any other colored pencil and they adhere to the ASTM D6901 standard as well as the D4236 standard.  

cons - 

  1. They are expensive (one pencil will set you back between 4.00 to 6.00 USD)
  2. It’s a little difficult to read the color description on the pencil and there is no color except for on the end of the pencil, so you have to turn the pencil in order to see the color or just look at the lead.  
  3. The core is the same in diameter as the Prismacolor premiere but the casing with the wood is much larger, and so you need a pencil sharpener that will accommodate this larger pencil. 
  4. Not available in most brick and mortar stores so you’ll have to order online.

 

Links mentioned in the show:

Prismacolor Premier Lightfast Color Chart

http://www.carandache.com/en/colour/luminance-6901

Lisa's comparison video

Quote:  What would you do if you knew you couldn’t fail?

Sign up for the free tools list from John at sharpenedartist.com and get colored pencil tricks and techniques delivered to your inbox!  

 

 

 

 

016 Interview with Gemma Gylling

Today we are interviewing wildlife artist, Gemma Gylling, CPSA, AFC. She has been involved in so many different areas related to creating art and teaching.  She’s a Craftsy Instructor.  She belongs to several art organizations.  And she has recently written a colored pencil book!  

Special offers:

Special rate on Craftsy class, Gemma’s book and other goodies! Our listeners can get the Craftsy class she talked about at 50% off by using the link from Gemma’s website:  http://www.glassgems.net/discounts.html

Links mentioned:

gemma@glassgems.net

http://www.glassgems.net

http://www.gemmagylling.blogspot.com

http://natureartists.com/gemma_gylling.asp

http://www.tripledgamefarm.com/

http://www.artistsforconservation.org/

http://www.societyofanimalartists.com/

http://annkullberg.com/pages/workshop-cruise

http://www.craftsy.com/

 

015 Rendering Animals in Colored Pencil

Rendering Animals in Colored Pencil

Drawing an animal is not all that different from a person with respect to the importance of the eyes and direction of the fur.  Every single part of drawing a portrait is laying the foundation for the final product.  The type of fur can be something that an inexperienced artist may want to go overboard with.  Also putting in too much detail in the fur may be a temptation as well.  

  1. The layout - Observation of the subject before beginning.

  2. Pencil Strokes - Keep consistent with angle or flow of the fur.  Remembering that this is suggesting the bones and muscle structure.

  3. Creating Depth and dimension - You still will have to recognize that the values are important.  Pay attention to the light and the shadows in your reference.

Rather than link some of the videos that Lisa has done of pet portraits I’m linking to the playlist.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Lachri/playlists

Scroll about halfway down to the playlist called animal paintings or click here “Animal Paintings by Lachri

 

014 Portraits That AREN'T Creepy

Topic:  How to render portraits in colored pencil

Intro:  Lisa and John discuss colored pencil portraits AND the new Colored Pencil Paper by Strathmore

Every single part of drawing a portrait is laying the foundation for the final product.  

Before beginning, it is good to know what I want the outcome to look like.

So for me, there are 4 areas that I am most concerned with:

  1. The layout - Am I going to trace an outline of the face or am I going to freehand?  Where is the subject going to be placed on the paper or canvas?  

  2. The focus in the face - If the focus is not going to be the eyes then that particular feature needs to be something that I think about and make sure that I keep that the focus.  As I’m progressing through my rendering of the portrait I am still thinking about that focus area.  In other words, just because I may be working on a cheek, I don’t want to become unbalanced in that.  In my effort to render a cheek I still want the eyes to draw the viewer in.

  3. Values and three-dimensional rendering in the face - For example, if I am drawing a nose.  Then I want to keep in my mind that at least I know in my mind that this is a nose and it has an apex at the very tip of the nose.  The tip of the nose will probably be lighter than any other part of the face because the 3D rules dictate that I do that.

  4. Building my values slowly - I do not want to speed things up and start quickly laying down pigment with pencils, just because I know there’s a large area that needs this one color.  I want to take my time and very slowly build up the values so that everything is in balance.  At any time I could stop drawing and call the piece a complete rendering- IF, I’ve kept the right balance.

For me, the face or subject matter is something that should have continuity.  It is sort of like water flowing down a river in one direction or a musical piece.  There is a balance with music.  We don’t all of a sudden in the middle of a piece, typically, change all the instruments and change the time signature.   But rather, there is some confluence in the piece.  There is some flowing from one musical portion to the next.  

Drawing is no different.  

There must always be a balance.

 

013 Differences in CP, Graphite and Charcoal

Differences in Colored Pencil, Graphite, and Charcoal

John and Lisa discuss what drawing medium they had used most often in the past.

Intro - Out of these 3 mediums it seems to me that colored pencils are the most versatile and yet probably the most challenging.  

  • Differences in graphite consistency and colored pencils (exception might be col-erase)

    With graphite, I tend to use just the pencils to do the work and I don’t use tortillons and paper stumps much. I build up my values up gradually and deliberately, remaining aware of the overall balance in the piece.  But with colored pencils, I do layer a lot, but I tend to go to very dark values at the beginning of the drawing.

  • Charcoal differences (powdery, fluid nature, quick)

    With Charcoal - There seems to be a temporary nature to the medium.  In some ways an artist may have less control over this medium than the other two.  Personally, I don’t enjoy it as much only because of the lack of control and I don’t enjoy the tactile experience with using it like I do with graphite and colored pencil.

 For example, even with graphite, If I’m using a very hard lead like a 2H or a 4H and I start to feel some of that grit, where the paper is getting scratched, I cringe.  It reminds me of someone scraping their fingernails across a chalkboard.

  • Tools, erasing, solvents

Adding water to a water-soluble medium (or other solvents) will make it to where you cannot erase it.  At least it becomes very difficult to erase.  Charcoal is water soluble and you can sometime get some interesting results when you use water with graphite.

In colored pencil, the more you use solvents and other tools, you can mimic the look of so many other art mediums and still have that control of a pencil.


 

012 Using Hashtags to Promote Your Work

Do hashtags really matter when posting on social media?  How can a colored pencil artist take advantage of this little symbol’s significance?

John discusses the history of the hashtag.  Eventually, Lisa and John discuss the current relevance of the hashtag to the colored pencil artist.

A hashtag is a symbol that has the design of 2 vertical and 2 horizontal lines. It looks something like a tic-tac-toe board.  Most people associate this symbol with twitter key searchable terms that come at the end of posts.  

The hashtag for our show is #cppodcast  #sharpenedartist

The first person to ever use a hashtag was Chris Messina. He used the hashtag #barcamp. That was way back in August of 2007.

Now today hashtags are everywhere and on other social media platforms and they are baked into the stream.

So what does this mean to the Colored Pencil Artist?

It is a way to categorize your art and get more exposure for your drawings.  And it creates a  clickable link for your post when someone clicks on the tags you include.  
 

Here are some small examples of tags to use:

Intagram - Important ones #artistsoninstagram, #coloredpencil, #colouredpencil

twitter - #coloredpencil, #colouredpencil, #Derwent, #Luminance

facebook - look into using the social graph
 

Sites and links mentioned in the show:

http://www.socialmediaexaminer.com/

 

http://www.socialmediaexaminer.com/how-to-use-facebook-graph-search/

 

http://www.socialmediaexaminer.com/tag/facebook-graph-search/



Lisa's video on Hashtags:  https://youtu.be/FkOPHzoJrV0









 

011 Don't Let Wax Bloom Happen To You!

John and Lisa discuss what wax bloom is and how to avoid it or eliminate it.  

What is wax bloom?

It may also be called “efflorescence”.  It refers to a wax build up.  Colored pencils are typically available in two different types of binders to hold the pigments together.  Generally speaking there are oil-based and there are wax based pencils.  

Wax-based seems to be the most preferred method by manufacturers for binding the pigment of a colored pencil.  Mostly because it’s the least expensive method.  When a colored pencil artist uses a wax-based pencil with a heavy hand, or multiple layers, a very mysterious film may appear.  This oxidation of the wax binder in the pigment is commonly referred to as wax bloom.  It can leave a very white film over at darkly pigmented area of your painting. It can also leave sort of a grayish film over your painting.  

When does it appear?  

I usually do not worry about it at all.  If I happen to see wax bloom then it is going to appear within several days or perhaps a few weeks.  

How do you get rid of it?

There are several methods that can be used to get rid of the wax bloom.  

  1. You can take a soft cloth and rub the area affected.  This is only a temporary fix and you run the risk of color transfer or damaging a texture of the surface.  

  2. You can heat the area with like a blow dryer or something similar.  Use something that will usually add heat to remove the film or buildup.

  3. You can heat it up with the Icarus board.

The way to permanently remove the build up is to spray your artwork with the fixative and then it’ll be gone and you’ll never see it again.

I have seen posts on forums like wetcanvas.com where people are seemingly freaked out by wax bloom. They will say things like yeah I’m not going to use colored pencils because of wax bloom or I cannot believe it I got wax bloom like it’s some kind of communicable disease.  

It’ll be okay.   Take a deep breath and spray your painting to protect it behind another finish spray or a good museum glass or something similar and then don’t ever worry about it.  



 

010 Erasers and Removing Mistakes

In this episode, hosts John and Lisa discuss different options for removing mistakes and their favorite erasers for CP.

What is an eraser? And where did they come from?  

Erasers, and quite literally “rubbers” were not invented for colored pencils.  It’s an important thing to keep in mind.  

So Colored Pencil artists have come up with ways to adapt and use some of these tools and have come up with other methods to remove pigment. Colored pencil fine art is more closely associated with a painting medium like watercolor where you employ methods of protecting areas and planning a piece before hand.  

With colored pencil, there is generally not a good and sure way to erase without leaving behind some color.  Colored pencil artists refer to this as “ghosting”.  

Some of the erasers that are mentioned in the show:  

Sticky tack - Acid free, poster tack that is used to hang lightweight posters and pictures.  

Kneaded eraser - a bendable gum base that is pliable and can be used a long time

Magic tape -  use a pencil on the back of the tape to gently press into the paper and then lift off very carefully.  And you’ll find that pigment can come off quite nicely using this method.

Faber-Castell Knetgummi Art Eraser - This particular substance is very tacky and is used like the kneaded eraser or sticky tack.

Tombow MONO Zero - Good for erasing just a very small or sharp edged area.

Staedtler electric battery eraser - Good for a very small area or a stubborn area.

Protecting areas

I think that protection is the key for doing a colored pencil painting.  That pigment can stain the fibers of your surface and then it is difficult to remove.  Especially if you’re trying to remove darker pigment from an area that you want to be lighter. That is just next to impossible.  So the best thing to do with that is to plan very well and to protect those areas before you start.

Some tools for this are:

post it notes - these work well to protect areas.  

masking fluid / liquid frisket - Usually I use this method with a ruling pen (or you can use a paint brush) that works quite nicely.  You have to also be very aware of how fresh your masking fluid is of use masking fluid before that was getting old and it can tear the paper when you’re attempting to remove it.

Low tac artist tape - another method.

If you press very hard you usually limit yourself in terms of how much you’re able to remove.  But on the other hand if you press very lightly and use very deliberate smaller strokes sometimes those can be taken off quite easily even if your are using darker colors.

How are erasers made?

http://www.madehow.com/Volume-5/Eraser.html

009 Using Solvents and Layering

Topic:  Blending with Solvents and Layering

John and Lisa discuss some of their experiences with using solvents and blending techniques.  

There are many different solvents that can be used with colored pencils.  It is good to know what is available and what tends to work with certain pencils.  As you test and experiment you will develop a preference to certain solvents and method for applying them.  

Is there a way to figure out what colors I’m going to use to layer?

How many layers will your paper hold?  

How do you go about creating the hue that you’re wanting to represent?  Are you choosing one pencil to represent that hue or many?

A lot of it will depend on your surface.  A smooth surface will not take many layers and one with a lot of tooth can take 10 or more layers - depending on how much pressure is used.

 

Some of the solvents used with colored pencils:

Paint thinner

OMS - Gamsol / Mona Lisa odorless paint thinner

Alcohol blender - usually comes in a marker line.  Markers do not last long.  A single “blender” marker may not allow you to finish an entire piece before running out.  Plus they are expensive for how little you get.

Baby Oil - or any other kind of oil.  Unless your surface is treated then this would not be an archival application because oils can cause untreated paper to start deteriorating more quickly than normal.

Water - some pencils blend with water nicely but some do not.  Oil based pencils like Polychromos are water resistant.  

Links mentioned in the show:

Lisa’s video on burnishing and using solvents

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oGAsNuChiU

 

008 Interview with Sally Robertson

Interview:  Sally Robertson, publisher and creator of COLORED PENCIL Magazine

Sally speaks about the origins of the magazine, her role as Editor-in-Chief, and the mission of her business.

She also talks about ways to get involved and have your art published and be seen around the world.  This exposure seems to lead to more success for the artists who have been involved in the magazine.

Links mentioned in the show:

www.coloredpencilmag.com

www.coloredpencilstudent.com

www.jerrysartarama.com

 

Special offer for The Colored Pencil Podcast listeners only is valid through August 15, 2015:

click the banner to open the link!

click the banner to open the link!

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SIGN UP FOR FREE SAMPLE ISSUE:

http://bitly.com/CPMNewsletter

Want to buy an issue a la carte? Description given for each issue!

http://coloredpencilmag.com/issues/

Instructions for submitting articles to Colored Pencil Magazine:

http://coloredpencilmag.com/contact-us/

Leave John and Lisa a voice message using the widget below and get your comment or questions featured on the show!  


007 Burnishing

What exactly is burnishing?

Burnishing and layering go hand in hand.  I can test on separate paper to figure out how many layers I can go.

In colored pencil, burnishing happens when you’ve applied so many pencil layers and used heavy enough pressure to smooth the surface of the paper.  This generally means that the paper or surface (or support) will no longer take any more layers.  

Burnishing can limit the options that you have.  Once you’ve flattened out the tooth (all those hills and valleys) in the paper you have no more opportunities to add more colors.  

Heavy pressure too earlier in the process for a very textured paper can also cause your surface to look unfinished.  It can leave white spots that you can’t get rid of.

The point of the pencil makes a big difference in the layering and burnishing process.

So what about pencil burnishers and the different types there are to choose from?


What is Scrubbing?  Movement that is 2 directional in the same spot.  Such as moving the pencil side to side or back and forth.  If you were to use lighter weight paper and scrub for very long you would eventually wear a hole in the paper.  

Scrubbing should be reserved for cleaning pots and pans and not for fine art!

Links mentioned in the show:

Lisa’s video on burnishing

006 Commissions

In this episode, hosts John Middick (Sharpened Artist) and Lisa Clough (Lachri Fine Art) discuss what a commission is and how to prepare yourself.  

Commissions may be a good way to earn some money as an artist.  But they can also be a double-edged sword.  If you don’t set some parameters and know what you are able to offer then it can bring a lot of frustration.

 

Definition: A patron or collector has made contact with you as an artist and has asked for a work of art.  

Pros:  

2 things happen right then..  

1) the person making the request for art has said to you that they like your art enough to exchange money for it.  

2) you are now entering into a working relationship with that person.  

 

They are a captive audience for the duration of the relationship.  -They will see how you conduct yourself in this relationship.  You have an opportunity at the end of the work to continue the relationship and keep them engaged.  (providing your website, business card, future discount if you offer discounts.)

  1. You are able to get paid to for creating art and you know the amount you’ll be paid from the very beginning.

  2. You know the customer already likes your art so you DO have some creative latitude in the process.

  3. Can help you build your portfolio.

  4. The customer can be another advertisement for your art.  They now have your art up in their house or business and others may ask about the piece.  Ex.- Owen Garrett of http://www.pencilneck.com/  takes the seller relationship very seriously where he is marketing to the person that is the recipient of his art.  So if they, the recipient of gifted art, decide to gift his art to someone he provides incentives for that.  So that keeps the ball rolling.  That can be a smart thing to do.

 

Should you take a deposit?

Should you discuss the copyright of the work?

Should you offer discounts?  

What should you charge?  Think about your time.

 

Cons:

Know your abilities before you price your work and make the time commitment.   

Decide ahead of time how you will deal with poor references photos.

 

Here’s a link to a sample artist contract that you can make your own:

http://ginodiavonti.com/text/utilities2.html

005 Composition and Layout

In this episode, hosts John Middick (Sharpened Artist) and Lisa Clough (Lachri Fine Art) discuss the early stages of the drawing process, particularly composition and layout.

Colored pencil is less forgiving than other mediums, so planning your piece ahead of time is essential. John and Lisa explain why you should never skip this step, and provide additional thoughts on the following questions:

  • Why is a good reference photo important, and what tools can you use to create the best reference possible?

  • Which details should you be including in your drawings, and which details are actually hindering your art?

  • Should a colored pencil artist use the rule of thirds and “Z formation” composition?

  • Is it okay to use aids (tracing, rulers, etc.) to achieve your desired layout?

  • Is there a correct order when building shadows and handling highlights in your drawings?

The following resources were mentioned in this episode:

Photoshop 7

Photoshop Elements

Paint.net

Gimp.com

CPAL Facebook page

SharpenedArtist.com

Vermeer and the Camera Obscura

Colored Pencil Podcast Facebook page

004 Finding Your Style

Lisa and John discuss the idea of a unique style and whether that is important to try and discover.

Is a niche important?  Can it be something that you force or decide early on in your art career?

Defining what a style or niche is?

  1. A particular method or approach.  ex- an oil painter might be a palette knife painter or they paint very large or very small, etc..  

  2. Common styles would be a landscape artist, or cityscape, or portrait or pet artist.

  3. Could be a particular subject or type of art.  If you google Joseph Crone, you will quickly see that he is associated with Film Noir (nwar).  Or Cecile Baird has the distinctive look of fruit or vegetables with a backlight on the subject and usually a very dark back ground.  John Smolko has the scribble look.  Google just “colored pencil scribble”

  4. Everyone knows an Escher painting or Van Gough

Some ways to help you develop into your own style or niche:

  1. Stay calm and focused - don’t go looking for a style.

  2. Create art that moves you.  Don’t go into a particular style because someone else said to do it.  Do it because you like to create it. draw what you love!

  3. Keep making art

  4. Experiment and improve.

People can tell if your work is contrived or not authentic.

Links and websites mentioned in the podcast:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Joseph-Crone/55092049118

http://josephcrone.blogspot.com/

http://www.cecilebairdart.com/
 

contact us by email at podcast@sharpenedartist.com

facebookgroup:  Colored Pencil Podcast

 

003 Interview with Wendy Layne

Wendy Layne is a very new artist but has always loved art and dabbled in watercolor art.  She’s created steam-punk jewelry.  One day she saw a realistic colored pencil time-lapse drawing on youtube and was hooked on the idea.

In a very short time Wendy is teaching workshops and creating online video course material and participating in shows with a lot of exposure.  She’s also been featured in colored pencil magazines.  

Links and websites mentioned in the podcast:

http://www.wendylayne.com/

https://www.facebook.com/wendylayneart

http://coloredpencilsclub.com/

www.cpsa.org

https://www.flickr.com/people/jannerboy62/

https://ngagementworks.wordpress.com/about/

https://www.facebook.com/alanwoollettbirdart

contact us by email at podcast@sharpenedartist.com

facebookgroup:  Colored Pencil Podcast

002 Defining CP and lightfastness

IMG_3323.JPG

Lisa and John discuss what constitutes a colored pencil and the lightfastness of this medium.

How do you define what a colored pencil is?

The Colored Pencil Society of America (CPSA) has their own definition of what a colored pencil is and some items on their list have changed in recent years.

The hosts discuss differences in lightfast ratings and differences in the scales used to make the determination.

should an artist test for themselves?  Should an artist disclose the lightfastness of the piece they have for sale?

Links and websites mentioned in the podcast:

http://lachri.com/polychromos-vs-luminance-colored-pencil-review/ - Lisa’s youtube video is toward the bottom of the page.

www.CPSA.org

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D6901.htm

http://www.carandache.com

http://www.fabercastell.com

contact us by email at podcast@sharpenedartist.com

facebookgroup:  Colored Pencil Podcast